by Wayne Forster

When my father passed away many years ago, my mother gave me a box that my father wanted me to have. The box contained assorted items from his life – war medals, keepsakes, old papers, some of his sketches, other memorabilia, and photos of his early years growing up in England. As I examined the items, a sense of regret came over me – regret that, even though I had also been born in England (we moved to Canada when I was only three months old), I had never been back to our mutual homeland. I resolved right then that, one day, I would go back to England.

The opportunity came one October a number of years later when Helen and I (together with our friends Theresa and Jim) decided to add five days in England to the end of a Mediterranean cruise. We would spend three days in Cornwall (at the country’s southwestern tip), with my Uncle Jim (my father’s brother), then two days in London before returning home.

We arrived from Rome at Heathrow Airport in London on a Friday, then took a cab to Paddington Station, where we boarded a train for the 5 ½ hour ride to Cambourne, the nearest station to my Uncle’s place in Troon. Arriving around midnight, we didn’t get to bed until after 2 am, just chatting till the wee hours.

Our tour of Cornwall began the next morning. After a bountiful “full English breakfast” at my cousin Sonja’s house – fried eggs (sunny side up), back bacon, sausages, blood pudding (I love blood pudding!), baked beans, mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, toast, and tea – Uncle Jim took us to St. Michael’s Mount, a popular Cornish historic site featuring a 17^thcentury castle, chapel, and gardens on a picturesque tidal island linked to the town of Marazion by a man-made causeway. As we crossed the causeway, I stopped, removed my sneakers, and dipped my toes in the English Channel (It’s a tradition of mine when I’m travelling to coastal areas to dip my toes in the ocean. It may sound silly, but because the oceans of the world are all connected, it’s my way of reminding myself that all peoples of the world are also connected.). Once on the island, we discovered that entry to the castle itself, and its adjacent gardens, was closed. (Apparently, the castle and gardens are closed on Saturdays during the tourist season. Just our luck!) So, we toured the rest of the island for a while before returning to the mainland.

From Marazion, we continued on to the port town of Penzance, a distance of about 6 kms (4 miles). Disembarking from our vehicle, we went for a stroll along the waterfront. As I looked out over the harbour, I thought of Gilbert and Sullivan’s Pirates of Penzance. There were no pirates in port that day (at least, not that I could tell), just dozens of fishing boats, sailboats, and pleasure craft beached in the mud at low tide.

From the waterfront, we walked up Wharf Road to Market Jew Street, one of the main shopping thoroughfares in downtown Penzance. After browsing through a few shops, we popped into a traditional Cornish pub and restaurant for lunch and a pint.

From Penzance, we took Route A30 to Land’s End, passing through quaint little Cornish villages named Lower Drift, Crows-an-wra, and Trevescan. It took us about 20 to 25 minutes. As Uncle Jim sped along the narrow road, with high hedges on both sides, I was a nervous wreck, worrying that a herd of sheep, or some hay wagon, would suddenly appear from the hedges, right in our path. But it didn’t seem to bother my uncle. He didn’t slow down a bit!

Land’s End is famous for being the most westerly point of land in mainland England, and it’s become a very popular tourist destination, with visitors coming from all over the world. You can’t go to Cornwall without going to Land’s End, if for no other reason than just to say you’ve been there.

When you arrive at Land’s End, you’re at the end of the road. You can’t go any further. You’ll enter what’s known as the “Land’s End Landmark Attraction”, a tourist complex developed by Heritage Great Britain. Inside the main complex are gift shops and kiosks, cafés, a restaurant and bar, a hotel, a theatre, an art gallery, and other attractions. Beyond the main complex, you can take a path down to a restored 200 year-old Cornish farmstead (there’s also a craft shop there), or head over to the “First and Last House”, a 19^th century cottage (and literally the first or last house in England, depending on the direction you’re heading) for an ice cream or beverage. And everyone stops for a picture at the iconic “Land’s End Signpost.”

Some people have decried the commercialization of the Land’s End site, arguing that it should have been left in its natural state. Whatever side of the debate you’re on, the complex has certainly helped make Land’s End a major tourist destination in the area, and no doubt benefited the local economy. Besides, if you’ve adventuresome (and don’t mind ignoring the warning signs), you can wander beyond the confines of the complex and explore the landscape on foot, searching for that perfect photo. But be careful. The cliffs are steep and treacherous, and sure death awaits you at the bottom.

By the time we had seen everything there was to see at Land’s End, it was late afternoon and time to head back to Troon. I had enjoyed my day (despite not getting to see the castle at St. Michael’s Mount.) The weather had been pleasant (a little cool, but sunny), I had been with family and friends, and I had stood at the very tip of the country of my birth. What more could I ask for?

But there was more to come. That night, my uncle gathered all his family (daughters, and sons-in-law, and boyfriends, and grandchildren), and we headed to his favourite local pub. Introduced to all the patrons as “Jim’s nephew from Canada”, I was treated like royalty, with round after round of Cornish beer. I slept well that night, looking forward to another day of touring. Sunday would be our last full day in Cornwall, and Uncle Jim would be taking us to St. Ives.

St. Ives is a seaside town on the north coast of Cornwall. Once a prosperous fishing centre, it is now primarily a resort town, and one of the most visited spots in all of Cornwall. Renowned for its art scene, with numerous art galleries and museums, it’s also brimming with craft shops, bookstores, pastry shops, specialty stores, authentic pubs, upscale restaurants, and boutique hotels. It has a quaint, classy feel to it, with its narrow cobbled streets and its sandstone buildings. It’s been described as “quintessentially Cornish.”

After doing some early morning sightseeing around Cambourne, we arrived in St. Ives just after 12 noon. A light rain was falling, and the air was cool, but it didn’t seem to dampen our spirits. After enjoying some fish and chips at a waterfront restaurant, we leisurely strolled the streets and lanes in the main downtown

area, stopping into numerous stores to browse and check out the merchandise. I bought some Cornish pasties and some scones at a pastry shop, Helen picked up a few souvenirs, and our friends purchased a print at an art gallery. We toured a historic church, enjoyed the music of the street musicians, and took some great photos of the waterfront from the pier, before heading back late afternoon. That evening, everyone gathered at Uncle Jim’s for dinner, where I enjoyed one of the pasties I had purchased, washing it down with Mead (I wanted the full Cornish experience). After dinner, we sat around and talked, laughed, and just enjoyed each other’s company. All in all, another great day in Cornwall.

The next morning we were up early for our long train ride back to London. As I sat at the breakfast table with Uncle Jim, we reminisced about my father. We both missed him very much. We both wished he was there.

Travel Tips for Cornwall

1. Michael’s Mount is worth seeing, but check out the open times for the castle and gardens before you go, because they vary depending on the time of year. As we found out, they’re closed on Saturdays during the tourist season (March to October) and only open Monday to Wednesday during the off season. There is no fee to enter the island, but there are fees to visit the castle and gardens. The island is accessible by causeway at low and mid-tide, and accessible by boat (for a small fee) at high tide.

2. Cornwall has an airport at Newquay, on the north coast, which handles commercial jets. Flights are available from London and other major cities in England. If you’ve taking the train from London, it’s best to book tickets in advance. Otherwise, depending on the time and day, you may not find a seat until the train empties out a bit along the route.