07 Dec The Okanagan Valley: Canada’s Wine Capital
by Wayne Forster
Ask any connoisseur to list the countries that make the best wine and they’d probably start with Italy, France, and Spain. And then they might add the United States, Australia, and Germany, followed by more recent wine-producing powerhouses like Chile, Argentina, Portugal, and South Africa.
But chances are, they wouldn’t mention Canada. I wouldn’t have either (and I’m Canadian). That is, until I had the opportunity to visit the wineries of the Okanagan Valley, in beautiful British Columbia.
The Okanagan Valley is a region of south-central BC defined by the basin of Okanagan Lake and the Canadian portion of the Okanagan River. It extends about 200 kms (120 miles) northward from the United States border. Lying between the Columbia and Cascade mountain ranges, it is no more than 20 kms (12 miles) wide.
The Valley’s landscape of low hills and oblong lakes was formed by glacial activity at the end of the last ice age, about 11,000 years ago. The retreating glaciers left large deposits of gravel, silt and sand on the bottom and sides of the valley. Over time, these sediments were eroded by water and wind, resulting in large deposits of rich alluvial soils, perfect for agriculture.
The Okanagan is also one of the warmest regions in all of Canada. Lying in the rain shadow of the Coast and Cascade mountains, the climate is hot, sunny, and dry, particularly to the south. Most of the valley receives about 2,000 hours of sunlight per year and only 250–400 mm (10-15 inches) of precipitation. The southern valley, which gets about 300 mm (12 inches) of precipitation, is desert-like, with cacti, rattlesnakes and mantids.
Because of the combination of rich soil and warm weather, the area is perfect for growing grapes and making wine. In fact, there are now over 170 wineries producing more than 75 grape varietals, with the slightly cooler northern areas better for whites, and the hotter, dryer southern areas better for reds. Most of the top wineries, however, make both whites and reds, either by having their own vineyards in each area, or making grow arrangements with other vintners. While people have been making wine in the Okanagan since the mid 19th century, the roots of today’s robust wine industry really go back only 30 years. This was thanks, in large part, to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and the influx of American wines on the Canadian market. As a result, the Canadian government introduced a vine pulling scheme where they paid growers to remove non-vinifera crops and replace them with vinifera vines. Now, after 30 years, “we’re finally getting it right”, as one local vintner told me, and Okanagan wines are winning awards all over the world.
Because of the combination of rich soil and warm weather, the area is perfect for growing grapes and making wine. In fact, there are now over 170 wineries producing more than 75 grape varietals, with the slightly cooler northern areas better for whites, and the hotter, dryer southern areas better for reds.
Helen and I arrived in the Okanagan Valley late one afternoon in mid-July. We had spend a couple of days touring Banff and Jasper National Parks in the Rockies, crossing over from Alberta to British Columbia through Mt. Robson Provincial Park. After spending the night in Valemount, we travelled down through the North Thomson River Valley along Hwy. 5 to Kamloops, where we had lunch. From there, we continued down Hwy. 5, then cut across 97C, entering the Okanagan from the west. We then checked into our hotel in West Kelowna.
We had come to the Okanagan primarily to visit the wineries, but we hadn’t booked any tours in advance, deciding to “wing it” on our own. So, the first evening, after dinner, we found a top-rated winery just two minutes from our hotel. We drove over, sampled a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Merlot (Helen’s favourite), and a Pinot Noir (my favourite), bought a couple of bottles, then headed back to our hotel. But as we sat in our room devising our plan for the following day, we realized we really had no idea what we were doing. Which of the 170 wineries should we visit? How much time would we waste trying to find them? Besides, it dawned on us that after touring a few wineries, we shouldn’t be driving! So, first thing the next morning, I got on the phone and started calling around. We found a very reasonably priced half-day tour of four wineries in the Lake Country area, in the northern part of the Valley. They even picked us up at our hotel!
It turned out to be a fabulous day. We visited four great wineries, all beautifully situated on hills overlooking Lake Okanagan. The tasting rooms were inviting and well organized, with a good selection to sample. The staffs at all the establishments were very helpful and knowledgeable. Our driver was great. And the weather was fantastic! Helen and I are red wine people, so we sampled Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Pinot Noirs, Syrahs, and a few red blends, and purchased about a case of wine in total to take home with us. But we also tried some roses and a couple of whites. Needless to say, when we were dropped off at our hotel at the end of the tour, we were feeling quite “happy”. We had definitely made the right decision to book a tour – and let someone else drive. If we ever come back, we’d definitely book our tour in advance.
To be sure, there are plenty of options for wine tours, with price ranges to suit any budget. Some are full-day, some include a meal, others tie in a brewery tour or a special event. You can also focus your touring on specific locales. You can choose the southern part of the Valley around Osoyoos (near the U.S. border); the central Valley near Kelowna; the west side of Lake Okanagan; or the Lake Country further north, as we did. Or, if you’re so inclined, you can explore on your own. Just make sure you have a designated driver, or use cabs.
Of course, while many people come to the Okanagan Valley primarily for the wine, there are plenty of other things to see and do. The second evening of our visit, we took a 2-hour boat cruise of Lake Okanagan, which included a chicken BBQ dinner and live entertainment. We then left early the next morning. But depending how long you plan to stay, you can go hiking, biking, or camping in the nearby Provincial Parks. You can rent a speed boat at the marina in Kelowna and tour the Lake; or go jet skiing, or parasailing, or flyboarding. There’s also a zip-line in Peachland, south of Kelowna. If you’re looking for something less “extreme”, there are several sightseeing tours by train, or bus, or van. You can visit a lavender farm on the outskirts of Kelowna and purchase a lavender spray at an aromatherapy bar. You can see a model railroad in Osoyoos, or drop in to the Country Village in Davison, near Nelson. In season, you can pop into one of the many farmer’s markets in the area, for locally grown fruit and vegetables (try the cherries). You can even tour an alpaca ranch!
Whatever your interests and travelling style, you’ll love the Okanagan Valley. But if you’re a wine lover, you really should check out this fast-emerging wine destination. It will both surprise and delight you.
Travel Tip for the Okanagan
If you’ve driving, the Okanagan Valley is about 4 hours from Vancouver, 5 hours and 15 minutes from Seattle, and 7 hours from Calgary. If you’re planning to fly, there’s an international airport in Kelowna (the 10th busiest in Canada, actually) with daily flights to and from Vancouver, Seattle, Calgary, Edmonton, and smaller Canadian centres. Best time to go is May to September. Summers are typically warm and dry; winters can be very cold. There’s a ski resort about an hour outside of Kelowna, but if you’re a skiing enthusiast, there are many much better skiing areas in British Columbia and Alberta. The Okanagan Valley is primarily a summer travel destination.